This entry was posted on November 15, 2010 at 10:02 PM and is filed under 28mm WW2, Gears and Guts Alt Ww2, On the Workbench, Pulp & Horror Skirmish, Wargaming, Weird War 2. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.
- Comment
- Reblog
-
Subscribe
Subscribed
Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
sbminisguy.wordpress.com 
November 15, 2010 at 10:17 PM |
i’m looking forward to seeing your finished product. i’m glad you’re doing this b/c i’ve been really curious about this game and don’t want to start another project. i’m like you in that i’m crazy about www2. i’ve recently gotten into ‘incursion’ and am working on a game board: http://thehistoricalminiaturist.blogspot.com/2010/11/taking-incursion-out-for-excursion.html
November 15, 2010 at 10:27 PM |
Wow! That’s a cool 3D board and I like your site, very nice! I want to give the German mechs a nice late-war camo paint job, so I’ll have to relearn the art of airbrushing. The US mechs should be pretty straightforward — some detailing, a wash, highlights and muddy feet should help.
November 16, 2010 at 4:43 PM |
thnx. and re: camo – have u considered a very light application of basic colors via brush (vs air) and going over with washes and drybrushing to feather the edges. that’s what i usually do b/c i don’t want to re-learn airbrushing. here’s an example: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j9dtXfSSrRw/S7jBoldRuPI/AAAAAAAAAKw/wnnLKpysVGg/s1600/mission.jpg
November 16, 2010 at 4:56 PM
I have usually done that for camo patterns, haven’t used an airbrush in years myself. On figures I do camo as you have suggested. What kind of wash do you usually use?? For vehicles I have tried hand-painting camo patterns but am not happy with the results.
November 15, 2010 at 11:51 PM |
What’s this 3D thing you are taking about? Are those paper legs?
Brian
November 16, 2010 at 12:21 AM |
Hi Brian,
No, they are a type of white resin. You can create objects using a 3-dimensional drawing program like Blender or Rhino, like a CAD program, and then have those “printed” in 3-D by machines that can lay down a fast drying resin in multiple layers to build up almost any object you can model. It’s a great way to prototype something. I worked with an artist I met through the forums at Shapeways (http://www.shapeways.com/) to create the legs, and then I had a set printed.
There’s also a company called “Moddler” in San Francisco which does very high-end 3D printing. It’s being used by a number of miniatures firms, like Rebel Minis, to do prototypes and masters for metal casting, as well as for special effects and toy/collectible figure firms:
http://www.moddler.com/
I’ve been dabbling at the 3D drawing programs, it will be a long time before I can do something interesting though. More of a writer than an artist!! Anyway, 3-D art and 3-D printing is the way to go, you see Mantic Games, Wargames Factory and others doing it as well.
November 16, 2010 at 5:14 PM |
brown ink works good for me but i drybrush first b4 ink wash. u need to experiment since i usually paint by feel. sorry, that’s as descriptive as i can get. hope that helps.